Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Marlborough Bras

This is a new pattern from Norma Loehr of Orange Lingerie.  I am a sucker for new bra patterns and since I fit into the size range on this one (barely) and I received a pre-release discount, I snapped it up.  You can get yours here.

I really liked the looks of this pattern and made this first one as is. I used her measurements to pick my size, which I hardly ever do, because the measurement plus 4 usually equals a band that is too big for any support (for me).  This one is comfortably snug and I think it will wear very well once the elastic relaxes a tad.


After I made the first one, and gave it the wear test, I realized that the underarm is just a little high and the straps need to move towards the center to be really comfortable on me. So I slashed the strap portion of the power bar and moved it towards the center about 1/4".  Trued up the seams and matched the power bar piece with the side frame piece and shaved off about 3/8". 

I made another version with these changes and after giving it the wear test am pretty pleased the placement of the straps.  I think the underarm can stand to be lowered just a smidge. On second thought, my supplies of elastic and such are fairly low, so maybe I just need to use the wider elastic that the pattern is drafted for.

Since I had plenty of fabric, I lined the power bar, lower cup piece, bridge, and side frame in self-fabric.  Feels so nice on! I highly recommend this Victoria's Secret Stretch Satin purchased here.  The pattern is drafted for low stretch fabrics in those pieces and the lining also cuts down on the stretch factor.

The only issue I ran into, was that there was no match point on the lower cup.  Just something to be aware of and an easy fix, just walk the pattern lines and add your own. Overall a great pattern, if you fit in the size range - 30A to 40DD - give it a try!  You can see the page that tells you how to figure your pattern size before you buy and according to her blog plans for more sizes are in the works.

I have plans for a couple more and may try a slight "hack" based on the designers recent article in Threads magazine for adding foam to your bras.

Happy Sewing, Suzanne

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