So, I didn't make any additional changes to my pattern, just used the recommended widths of elastic. The recommended width at the top and bottom of the bands is slightly wider than I had available the first two times. This pattern recommends 1/2" elastic for the top band in the larger cup sizes. Beverly Johnson recommends in her Craftsy class the 3/8". My preference, after trying both, is the 3/8", it just seems easier to use and I just can't tell that much difference in the support. For reference I am using the 40DD size. Even with the 1/2" elastic at the top (which lowered the underarm by 1/8"), it still is rubbing at my underarm crease, so I will probably lower at little more in that area next time.
I ended up with some strange vertical wrinkles around the strap area, that I had not had before. Again quoting Beverly Johnson, your cup is too large, try again. But I'm looking at it in the mirror and I'm thinking not necessarily. The bottom of the cup and wire seem to fit pretty well. So off to do some more research on that.
The panties are made from the Burda Cheeky Panty pattern, which is free! Very comfy, but high-waisted, I will lower slightly next time. And as when I made them for my daughter, be sure your stitches have enough stretch. There is no elastic in the waist of these, so they rely on negative ease to keep them in place. I did some testing on scrap fabric to make sure my zig-zag would not pop.
I made them in a perfectly serviceable cream color. What I call candlelight or the "non-color" color and knew I wasn't going to leave this set in that color. So I stitched with the a peach thread I had on hand and dunked in an acid-wash dye bath. I'm pretty sure I used the Jacquard Acid Dye in Cantaloupe from Dharma Trading, again I 've had it awhile so I won't swear to that.
Anyway here are before and after pictures -
I have so much trouble getting accurate colors inside. This looks kind of peach, but in real life it really is more a light cantaloupe color.
Happy Sewing, Suzanne