Marlbough Bra - 3rd times the....

Nope! Not quite. This is my third time making this pattern and it's still not quite right.  It is wearable and if I had purchased it I would not be fretting over it, so there is that.  But I sew and I want need the perfect bra pattern.  That way I can go into neener-neener mode and thumb my nose at the RTW manufacturers that keep taking away my comfortable bras just as I find them.

So, I didn't make any additional changes to my pattern, just used the recommended widths of elastic.  The recommended width at the top and bottom of the bands is slightly wider than I had available the first two times.  This pattern recommends 1/2" elastic for the top band in the larger cup sizes.  Beverly Johnson recommends in her Craftsy class the 3/8".  My preference, after trying both, is the 3/8", it just seems easier to use and I just can't tell that much difference in the support.  For reference I am using the 40DD size.  Even with the 1/2" elastic at the top (which lowered the underarm by 1/8"), it still is rubbing at my underarm crease, so I will probably lower at little more in that area next time.

I ended up with some strange vertical wrinkles around the strap area, that I had not had before. Again quoting Beverly Johnson, your cup is too large, try again.  But I'm looking at it in the mirror and I'm thinking not necessarily.  The bottom of the cup and wire seem to fit pretty well.  So off to do some more research on that.

The panties are made from the Burda Cheeky Panty pattern, which is free!  Very comfy, but high-waisted, I will lower slightly next time.  And as when I made them for my daughter, be sure your stitches have enough stretch.  There is no elastic in the waist of these, so they rely on negative ease to keep them in place.  I did some testing on scrap fabric to make sure my zig-zag would not pop.

I made them in a perfectly serviceable cream color.  What I call candlelight or the "non-color" color and knew I wasn't going to leave this set in that color.  So I stitched with the a peach thread I had on hand and dunked in an acid-wash dye bath.  I'm pretty sure I used the Jacquard Acid Dye in Cantaloupe from Dharma Trading, again I 've had it awhile so I won't swear to that. 

Anyway here are before and after pictures -

 

 

I have so much trouble getting accurate colors inside.  This looks kind of peach, but in real life it really is more a light cantaloupe color.


Happy Sewing, Suzanne

Marlborough Bras

This is a new pattern from Norma Loehr of Orange Lingerie.  I am a sucker for new bra patterns and since I fit into the size range on this one (barely) and I received a pre-release discount, I snapped it up.  You can get yours here.

I really liked the looks of this pattern and made this first one as is. I used her measurements to pick my size, which I hardly ever do, because the measurement plus 4 usually equals a band that is too big for any support (for me).  This one is comfortably snug and I think it will wear very well once the elastic relaxes a tad.

 

After I made the first one, and gave it the wear test, I realized that the underarm is just a little high and the straps need to move towards the center to be really comfortable on me. So I slashed the strap portion of the power bar and moved it towards the center about 1/4".  Trued up the seams and matched the power bar piece with the side frame piece and shaved off about 3/8". 

I made another version with these changes and after giving it the wear test am pretty pleased the placement of the straps.  I think the underarm can stand to be lowered just a smidge. On second thought, my supplies of elastic and such are fairly low, so maybe I just need to use the wider elastic that the pattern is drafted for.

Since I had plenty of fabric, I lined the power bar, lower cup piece, bridge, and side frame in self-fabric.  Feels so nice on! I highly recommend this Victoria's Secret Stretch Satin purchased here.  The pattern is drafted for low stretch fabrics in those pieces and the lining also cuts down on the stretch factor.

The only issue I ran into, was that there was no match point on the lower cup.  Just something to be aware of and an easy fix, just walk the pattern lines and add your own. Overall a great pattern, if you fit in the size range - 30A to 40DD - give it a try!  You can see the page that tells you how to figure your pattern size before you buy and according to her blog plans for more sizes are in the works.

I have plans for a couple more and may try a slight "hack" based on the designers recent article in Threads magazine for adding foam to your bras.

Happy Sewing, Suzanne