The pattern is the downloadable DL01 found at makebra.com. I am always on the lookout for "new and improved", not to say the patterns I have been using are not good, they are and I recommend them. But this one was different and also very good.
This pattern uses a bonded foam to shape the cups. I thought the pattern was very well drafted and true to the given measurements. I usually have use the given measurements to find the starting size and then go down a band size and up a cup size. There is lots of useful infomation on the blog about constructing her patterns and making a trial bra. Which I did! that's probably a first. It seemed to fit pretty well, so off I went to make a sample wearable bra.
The whole time I was making this, I was thinking about the black & white jumpsuits they make inmates wear, but the first time DD saw what I was doing she said "Beetlejuice!" So prison wear or Beetlejuice, take your pick. The instructions call for fold-over elastic on the upper edge of the cups and the underarm edge. I, however, am not fond of fold-over elastic nor sure of my ability to apply it even reasonably well, so I added seam allowance to those edges and applied plush elastic to underarm edge like normal and the pretty lacy picot to upper cup edge. This theory, as is quite often the case, worked better in my head than in practice.
This bra was made with a 1/8" foam and I'm not sure I like it. I have since ordered and received a 1/16" foam that I will use for the next one. I'm giving it the wear test today and have come to the following conclusions - 1. the underarm edge is just a little to high to be comfortable, I was aware to it all day, 2. I need to work on the upper cup edge, there is gaping between me and the bra. This may by operator inefficiency, so I will try again as drafted with the thinner foam and I may have to get over my
WooHoo - overall a win on the new pattern!
Happy Sewing, Suzanne